Our Plumber Ryan that services the Burlington area turned off the water supply first. The valves are typically under the sink. If not, turn off the water at the main valve. Then turn on the faucet to relieve any water pressure left in the lines.

Disconnected the supply lines from the faucet. Used a basin wrench if you can’t reach the connections with his hands. Disconnected the lift rod, and then removed the nuts from under the faucet.

Most installations begin with installing the gasket on the bottom of the faucet. Some require sealant or plumber’s putty. Ryan did put the faucet through the mounting holes in the sink and tighten the mounting nuts. Not all faucets come preassembled so you might have to attach the handles. It’s easy. He slipped the guide ring onto the bottom of the handle, position it on the faucet base, and secure with the setscrew. A setscrew is the tiny screw on the underside of the handle. Your faucet probably would come with a hex wrench to tighten it.

Next move on to the drain. Screwed the nut all the way down on the drain body and push the gasket over it. Some gaskets are threaded and simply screw into place. Applied just a little bit of silicone (some manufacturers recommend plumber’s putty) under the flange. Positioned the drain body on the bottom of the sink — making sure the pivot hole is facing the back — and screw the flange on from the top side. Underneath, tightened the nut and gasket. On the top, Ryan used mineral spirits to clean up any excess silicone.

Ryan Installed the drain rod next. He unscrewed the pivot nut on the drain body, inserted the horizontal rod through the hole in the stopper, and replace the nut. He pushed the horizontal rod down and secure the lift rod to the strap with the screw. Tested the lift rod and reconnected the supply lines to the faucet.

WELL DONE RYAN!

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